Colombian ajiaco is a miracle of soups. It’s luxurious, convivial and fresh. The basic idea is this: a bowl of rich chicken broth with lots of potatoes and chunks of sweetcorn, personalised with sliced avocado, capers, a tomato-coriander salsa and cream, followed by another bowl, or two. Do try it.
A Sort of Ajiaco
Proper aijaco requires some ingredients we lack, so this is a Leamington approximation. I think it’s delicious but apologies to all Colombians.
Ingredients
the stock
1 whole chicken, or chicken pieces, of about 1.6 kilos in weight, but you needn’t be precise.
1 large onion, chopped fine
4 litres of water
1 tablespoon salt
6 whole peppercorns
the additional soup ingredients
4 potatoes, cut into chunks — the Canalside potatoes we’re currently getting are ideal as they are the mealy variety that disintigrate when you boil them. That’s what you want here.
3 potatoes, cut into thinnish slices—ideally, use waxy potatoes of the sort that will not disintegrate when you boil them. Real ajiaco uses different varieties of potato but even if you use only one the result will be delicious.
200g runner beans, sliced in to 1-inch chunks
2-3 ears sweetcorn, shucked (i.e. husk and silk removed) and cut into 3 chunks
the delightful extras
2 avocados, cut into slices
1/4 cup capers
1/2 cup double cream (I suppose you could use single cream)
tomato-coriander salsa
4 tomatoes, chopped into small cubes
1 medium onion, chopped fine
1/2 cup fresh coriander, chopped fine
1 green or red chilli
salt to taste
Preparation
Put the soup ingredients into a large pot for which you have a lid. Cover and bring to the boil. Once it begins boiling turn the heat down so that it simmers gently. Cook for 75 minutes.Meanwhile prepare the other components. Put the avocadoes and capers in two attractive little dishes and place the cream in a jug. Then prepare the salsa: put the tomato, onion and coriander into a little serving bowl and mix. Cut off the end of the chilli and the slice it in half. If you don’t want the salsa to be too hot remove the seeds, and then mince the chilli into tiny bits. Mix it into the salsa and add salt to taste. Let it mellow while you finish the soup.
After the soup has been cooking for about an hour and a quarter the chicken should be tender and the broth rich and flavourful. If for any reason the chicken still seems a bit rubbery or under-cooked, let the soup simmer for another 15 minutes or so. Fish out the chicken and let it cool a little. Once you’re able to handle it, remove the meat from the bones, and, if you like, shred it a bit into bite-sized pieces. Return the meat to the pot and bring the soup back to the boil.
Add the chunks of potato and cook for 20 minutes. The potato should disintegrate. If chunks still remain give the whole thing a little mash with a potato masher to encourage them to break apart.
Add the sliced potatoes and runner beans nd cook for another 10-15 minutes, until they are tender.
Add the chunks of corn and cook for 5 final minutes. Check to see if it needs more salt or pepper.
To serve: bring the soup to the table and give each diner a bowl brimming with chicken, sliced potatoes and runner beans, topped by a piece of corn on the cob. Pass around the little bowls of avocado, capers, and the salsa, and the jug of cream. Each diner can adorn their bowl with whatever they fancy.
This makes a great lunch. It’s quick, crunchy and surprising. Cooking a cucumber intensifies the flavour and gives it a crisp edge. The richness of the haloumi contrasts with the sweet bite of the tomatoes and the sharp, herby dressing pulls it all together. Eat with some crusty bread.
When I made this I used some of the wild marjoram that grows all over Dorset, but I think it would work well with other herbs, or a mixture of whatever you have to hand.
Griddled Cucumber with Haloumi
Serves 2
Ingredients
2 cucumbers
8-10 cherry tomatoes
half a packet of haloumi, sliced into tranches
for the dressing
handful of fresh marjoram, or oregano, or coriander, or parsley or a mixture of different herbs
100ml olive oil
juice of one lemon
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin—for optimal flavour, toast some whole cumin seeds in a dry pan, let them cool, and then grind them with a mortar and pestle.
1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika (hot or sweet, as you prefer)—or less, to taste
pinch of cinnamon
salt and pepper to taste
Preparation
Slice the cucumbers lengthwise into 1cm thick planks.
Heat a frying pan. A grill pan with ridges will leave attractive grill-lines on the cucumbers, if you have such a thing. Brush it lightly with oil and place some of the cucumbers in the pan. Cook for about 5 minutes, by which time the undersides should be attractively seared and the flesh should look a bit yellower. Turn them over and cook for another 3-5 minutes, until both sides are charred (but not burnt). Place them on an attractive serving platter. Griddle the remaining cucumbers in the same way.
Prepare the dressing while the cucumbers are cooking: whizz the fresh herbs together with the olive oil, lemon juice and seasonings to make a very thick dressing. Taste it to see if it needs more lemon juice. If it’s extremely thick you can thin it out with a bit more oil.
Slice the cherry tomatoes in half. Once the cucumbers are grilled, scatter the tomatoes over them.
When the cucumbers are done use the grill pan to griddle the haloumi. It should take about 3 minutes per side to develop a nice golden crust. Tuck the slices of haloumi amidst the cucumbers and tomatoes. Dot the dressing over the top and serve with crusty bread.
‘This is an instant favorite of anyone who tries it’, writes chef Christopher Boswell. The delicate fennel combines with the tang of the Parmesan to create a very satisfying and subtle little salad.
Crudo di Finocchio con Limome, Prezzemolo e Scaglie di Parmigiano
(Shaved Fennel with Lemon Juice, Parsley & Parmesan)
Note that you do not toss the ingredients together. Instead you layer them directly onto the serving platter.
This might serve 4 as part of a larger meal.
Ingredients
3 Canalside fennel bulbs or 2 large ones
salt and pepper, to taste
1 lemon
60ml really good olive oil—such as that special oil from La Jimena
15 parsley sprigs
30g chunk of Parmesan or Pecorino
Preparation
Cut the bottom off the fennel and then slice off the top, leaving just the bulbous body. This is the bit you need for this salad but you can keep the wispy fronds to garnish some other salad if you like. Cut the bulb in half lengthwise. Remove any tough outer leaves and leave it to soak in lots of water for half an hour, to remove any residual earth.
Drain the fennel and then slice it into the thinnest strips that you can produce. Apparently a mandoline is ideal. Opinions differ as to whether you should slice it longitudinally or horizontally. I don’t know that it makes much difference. The key thing is to get it super thin.
Spread the fennel out on a platter and season it with salt and pepper.
Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice all over the fennel.
Drizzle the olive oil back and forth across the dish.
Remove the leaves from the parsley and scatter them artfully over the fennel.
Finally, using a vegetable parer, shave the cheese into thin wisps over the assemblage. Serve immediately.
(Adapted from Christopher Boswell, Verdure: Vegetable Recipes from the American Academy in Rome (2014).)
Courgettes sautéed with sweet spices and coriander against a satisfying backdrop of warm bulgur wheat. This simple recipe is much greater than the sum of its parts. I think it’s the cinnamon.
The proportions are pretty flexible.
serves 3-4.
Ingredients
2 cloves of garlic, or more to taste
1 bunch (or a big handful) of coriander, stalks removed
about 2 tablespoons olive oil
3-4 courgettes, chopped into fairly small pieces
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg (freshly grated)
about 600ml water or stock
200g fine bulgur wheat (aka crushed wheat or cracked wheat)
salt and pepper to taste
Preparation
Grind the garlic and coriander together, or chop them fine. Heat the olive oil in a pan and fry the garlic-coriander paste for a minute or two.
Add the courgettes, and after a minute add the cinnamon and freshly-grated nutmeg. Continue to fry for a few more minutes.
Add 500ml of the water or stock, and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 4 minutes.
Add the bulgur wheat, bring back to a simmer, and simmer for 5-10 more minutes, until the wheat is tender and liquid is absorbed. Taste it occasionally: if the bulgur isn’t tender enough add some more of the water or stock and let it cook a little longer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve the lovely, pale green mixture in a blue bowl.
(Recipe courtesy of Mona Whitbread.)
This week’s recipe is a comforting, warm pie. The leeks and chicken blend beautifully with the tarragon and cream to make a fine suppertime dish. Accompany it with a salad or some cooked spring greens and spinach.
Chicken and Leek Pie
Serves 4.
Ingredients
1 pie crust
60g flour
½ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon salt
500g boneless chicken breast or thighs, cut into 2cm pieces
2 tablespoons olive oil
25g butter
2-3 leeks, sliced
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
80ml white wine
250ml chicken stock
125ml single cream
2 teaspoons fresh tarragon, chopped
1 tablespoon parsley and/or chives, chopped
1 egg, beaten
Roll out the pastry and line the bottom of a 20cm pie dish. Cut out enough for the top, as well, while you’re at it.
Place the lined pie dish and rolled pastry top in the fridge while you prepare the filling.
Preheat the oven to 180C.
Mix the flour, peppers and salt in a bowl. Add the chicken and toss well. Shake off the excess flour.
Heat the oil and butter in a pan over high heat. When it’s hot sauté the chicken until it’s lightly browned. It does not need to be cooked through. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Lower the heat to medium. Add the leeks and garlic to the pan and cook for about 5 minutes, until wilted. Add the wine and boil for a minute. Add the stock and cream and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Add the herbs and return the chicken to the pan. Cook for a minute longer and then remove from the heat.
Put the filling into the pie dish and cover with the top. Slash the top in several places to let out the steam, and then brush with the beaten egg to give it a shiny glaze. Bake for about 35 minutes or until golden brown.
(Recipe adapted from Bill Granger, Bill’s Sydney Food.)
This week’s recipe combines leeks with tomato-y rice to make a lovely salad.
Leeks à la Grecque
Serves 4 as a starter or part of a mezze.
3-4 leeks
300ml water
150l olive oil
1 heaped tablespoon tomato purée
1 heaped teaspoon sugar
salt and pepper (to taste)
60g white rice
1 lemon
12 black olives
parsley, chopped
Cut the ends off the leeks and slice them into 4cm lengths. Wash them well.
Put the leeks, water, olive oil, tomato purée, sugar, and salt and pepper into a medium-sized pan and bring to a boil. Cover the pan and cook for 5 minutes.
Add the rice to the pan and turn the heat down a little so it’s not boiling too furiously. Cover the pan again and cook for 8 minutes more. The rice should have absorbed most of the liquid.
Turn off the heat but leave the pan on the stove, covered, for another 10 to 15 minutes. After this time the rice should be cooked but firm.
While the rice is resting cut the lemon in half. Juice one half and slice the other half into thin slices.
Season the rice-leek mixture with the lemon juice and check whether it needs more salt or pepper. Once you’re happy with it put it into a nice dish and chill. When you’re read to serve it, garnish it with the lemon slices, olives and chopped parsley.
(Adapted from Jane Grigson, Good Things)
This recipe can be made with either cauliflower or sprouting broccoli. Do you have any coriander left over from last week? Use it here!
Frying tofu transforms it from soft (and bland) to crispy and very, very tasty. ‘Keep your hands off that tofu!’ I had to tell my sons whenever I made this, or else there wouldn’t be any left to add to the finished dish.
Coriander Noodle Bowl
Serves 4.
one Canalside cauliflower or 120g sprouting broccoli
1 bunch of fresh coriander
zest of one lemon
juice of half a lemon
2 large cloves of garlic
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon salt
150ml olive oil (for the dressing)
250g soba noodles
2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil (for frying the tofu)
280g firm tofu (this is the weight of a standard packet of tofu, but you don’t need to be precise about getting exactly this amount)
Cut the cauliflower into nice, bite-sized florets. If you’re using sprouting broccoli split any very thick pieces into thinner sprigs.
Bring a big pot of salted water to the boil.
Meanwhile, make a dressing: blend the coriander, lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic, cayenne, salt and olive oil together using a food processor or hand blender, or, if you’re so inclined, you can chop them together by hand. Taste it to see if it needs any more salt, or perhaps some more lemon juice. If it’s too thick you can add more olive oil. Once you’re happy with the taste set it aside while you cook the noodles and vegetables.
Cook the soba noodles in the boiling water. They should take about six-eight minutes to cook but check the packet.
WHEN THEY ARE NEARLY TENDER (about a minute or so before they are done) ADD THE CAULIFLOWER OR BROCCOLI and cook for the noodles and vegetables together for a final minute or so. You don’t want to really cook the vegetables much. (Unless you hate very al-dente vegetables—in that case add them sooner and cook them longer.)
Drain the noodles and vegetables and toss with the dressing. Set aside while you prepare the tofu.
Slice up the tofu as if you were making chips. You can make thin or thick sticks, as you prefer.
Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat until it’s hot, and fry the tofu, a little at a time. Turn it carefully so that all sizes get nicely crispy and golden. Remove the crispy bits as they cook and add them to your noodle mixture.
When all the tofu has been fried toss everything together and serve.
(adapted from 101 Cookbooks.)
This week’s recipe is a delicious roasted veg with Eastern flavours. You can buy fresh curry and Kaffir lime leaves at the Oriental Supermarket on the High Street, Leamington.
Roasted Root Vegetables with Curry Leaves and Lime
serves 4
400g carrots
400g parsnips
400g swede
60 ml olive oil
3 tablespoons lime juice (about 2 limes)
2 teaspoons curry powder
6 Kaffir lime leaves, finely shredded
2 stems of curry leaves
4 tablespoons fresh coriander, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
freshly-ground black pepper (to taste)
Preheat the oven to 240C.
Peel the carrots and cut them into batons. 6cm x 2 cm is a good size but it doesn’t matter that much; smaller batons will cook more quickly.
Peel the parsnips and cut into similar-sized batons. Ditto the swedes.
Place the vegetables in a roasting tray
Mix the olive oil, 1.5 tablespoons of lime juice, curry powder, salt and pepper and pour over the vegetables. Toss them together to coat.
Roast for 30 minutes, turning occasionally.
Add the lime and curry leaves and roast for a further 10 minutes or so. It’s done when the vegetables are tender and attractively browned.
Remove from the oven, pour over the remaining 1.5 tablespoons of lime juice and serve, garnished with fresh coriander. Yotam recommends accompanying it with some rice.
(Adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi, Plenty More.)
Hurrah for La Jimena!
This week’s recipes celebrate the arrival of the delivery of citrus fruits, olives, olive oil and almonds from La Jimena farm in Spain! The recipes combine some of the Canalside winter staples (potatoes and onions) with lemons, oranges and olives, to bring a bit of Spanish sunshine to the Midlands. If you’ve received a box from La Jimena, this is a nice way to use some of its contents. If not, the shops are full of excellent citrus fruits, which are currently at their peak.
These recipes are adapted from Claudia Roden’s wonderful 2009 Arabeque: A Tate of Morocco, Turkey, & Lebanon.
You’ll notice that the dressings for these two salads are virtually identical, yet the results are strikingly different.
Potato and Olive Salad
serves 3-4
500g of Canalside white potatoes
5 tablespoons olive oil
juice of one lemon
1/2 teaspoon paprika or to taste
1 teaspoon ground cumin*
salt to taste
1 small red or white onion, finely chopped
12 olives
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Cover the potatoes with cold water and bring them to a gentle boil. (Claudia Roden suggests peeling them first so that they absorb more of the dressing.)
While the potatoes are cooking mix the olive oil, lemon juice, paprika, cumin and salt in a serving bowl. Add the onions and olives and set aside until the potatoes are cooked.
When the potatoes are tender drain them and cut into chunks as soon as they are cool enough to handle.
Mix the still-warm potatoes with the ingredients in the bowl. Leave them to absorb the flavours of the dressing if you have time—but it will be tasty to eat right away.
When you’re ready to eat it mix in the parsley.
Orange, Olive and Onion Salad
serves 6
4 oranges
1 large red onion, finely chopped
16 olives
1 lemon
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin*
1/2 teaspoon paprika or to taste
salt to taste
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Peel the oranges and cut off as much of the white pith as possible. Cut them into thick slices, and then cut the slices into quarters.
Toss them with the onion and olives and arrange the mixture on a serving plate.
Prepare the lemon in the same fashion as the oranges, but cut it into tiny pieces (i.e. peel it, cut off the white pith, slice it into thin slices, and then chop the slices into small pieces).
Mix the lemon and any juice with the olive oil, cumin, paprika, salt and parsley. Toss this dressing on the salad and serve.
* For the best flavour toast about 2 teaspoons of whole cumin seeds in a dry frying pan (don’t add any oil) until they smell fragrant. Leave them to cool and then grind them in a mortar and pestle.
This is a new regular feature in the weekly members’ update, suggested by member, Rebecca Earle, and using something from next week’s share list. Thanks for this Rebecca, and I look forward to future, tasty, culinary inspiration from you! :o)
It’s modified from Smitten Kitchen: https://smittenkitchen.com/2010/05/carrot-salad-with-harissa-feta-and-mint/
Carrot Salad with Cumin, Feta and Mint
serves 2-4
400g carrots
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 crushed clove of garlic
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon paprika
3/4 teaspoon harissa (optional)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons flat leaf parsley, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
100g feta, crumbled or chopped into bits
Peel the carrots and grate them into a serving bowl.
Heat the oil in a small pan. Once it is hot sauté the garlic, caraway, cumin, paprika, harissa and sugar in the oil until fragrant, about one to two minutes. Remove from heat and add the lemon juice and a pinch of salt.
Pour the mixture over the carrots and mix. Mix in the herbs and the feta. Very yummy.